Friday, May 14, 2021

Moving to Valencia, Spain (During a Pandemic)

 After our (everyone's) weird year, it feels pretty amazing to say that we managed to move to Spain before 2020 ended. Here's a bit more about how our pandemic journey started and what happened from there. When I last wrote, I was excited but filled with anxiety about the trip to Spain. Certainly, traveling in a pandemic, let alone moving countries, is nerve-racking. We had essentially been relegated to the house with brief trips outdoors for the previous eight or so months. 

So, it was truly surreal to be heading to the airport. Our entire lives (what was left after leaving most things behind in China) were packed into the max # of suitcases we were allowed and we were off to the next adventure!


The Actual Moving Process

Fortunately, the trip itself went quite smoothly. We had chosen TAP, the Portuguese airline, from Dulles to Lisbon and directly on to Valencia. It is tough to know what's the smart decision in these crazy times and we'd heard plenty of complaints about TAP. But, we decided to take the risk, given the much preferable route and the fact that we could afford Business Class which we felt would expose us to fewer people. It also came with extra baggage, since we were moving all our belongings with us. Of course, since we left behind a good chunk of our belongings, this was quite doable. But, many airlines charged crazy fees if we wanted to just add one piece of luggage, so in the end, we could travel TAP's Business Class for a similar price and be much more comfortable.

TAP's staff at Dulles were friendly and helpful. We worried about strict baggage sizes and weights, and the logistics of travel during this time with the ever-changing rules. But, no need to worry. The airport was ghostly silent and we made our way to the Business lounge at Dulles and briefly took off our masks for a soda and snack. When you haven't been around other people in months, it is disarming to suddenly be in a travel situation, but this first leg sort of eased us into the experience. The flight itself was wonderful. Though we were feeling paranoid and getting used to flying with our N95 masks on, it actually felt somewhat exciting to be back into the world of travel, if by necessity.

We had a stop in Lisbon, which was really weird as the airport there was pretty packed. 100% mask usage, but not easy to stay distant. But, once we made it through immigration and security, we found a quiet spot to wait for our next flight. The small plane to Valencia was far from the luxurious feel of the overseas flight, but it was relatively quick.

Arriving in Valencia

Easy, peasey! We showed our QR code/health form and collected our bags.

At the time we came to Spain, Americans were only permitted if they had residence (ie our residency visa that we'd been granted). They were only requiring a health form, which we completed electronically and stored the QR code on our phones, while also printing one out to be safe. We put the wrong flight # (our flight to Portugal, not the final leg to Spain) but it turned out fine. They also have forms you can fill out on the spot if needed. Not too long after, they started requiring COVID tests within 72 hours of landing, but that was not the case when we arrived.

We had the Cabify app from our time in Madrid in early 2020, but ended up just grabbing taxis (yes, taxis...too much stuff for one car and no minivan taxis around). They made their way efficiently to our new home.

We were so lucky in our "apartment search". The guy we had rented from before showed us some photos online, and we pretty quickly realized that one was perfect for us. We rented it sight unseen (helps to have a trusted resource). He was there waiting for us and we quickly looked around, got contracts signed, and the initial rent transferred. All in all, a pretty painless process and we're home!

Outdoor space was one of our top criteria, especially given the pandemic. Our new home has a terrace that is almost as large as the apartment itself. 

Evening view from our terrace

Our outdoor dining space, all dressed up for Halloween


The place came furnished and fully equipped (has enough towels for twice as many people) so all we had to do was unpack our clothes. Over the first few weeks, we bought a few little items. A printer was top on the list and we filled the gaps with a few other kitchen items and such. The handy "bazaars" (also known as "Chinos", as they're all run by Chinese owners) are as good as ever for the array of little things you might need!

It's Been A Dream

Valencia is as gorgeous as we remember it. The first evening, we sat outside at one of our favorite spots eating the most delicious cl√≥chinas (local mejillones/mussels) feeling like we were in a dream. 




The day-to-day tasks of life and work go on, but to be able to walk around and see some of the most beautiful architecture just outside your door makes it all seem different. 













I take almost daily walks in Turia Park and have explored many new neighborhoods, parks, and gardens.










We've had a couple afternoons at the beach for a long paella lunch. 



And, we even managed a trip down to Denia, our first home in Spain.

A remake of a similar photo taken almost 10 years ago near Denia, when we first arrived in Spain


...With the Ups and Downs of COVID

Of course, it's been a little different this time. When we first arrived, there were mild restrictions. Masks were required and everyone was compliant. But, you could still go to restaurants and shopping and other activities were mostly normal. Things weren't open late and occupancy was limited. We haven't eaten inside a restaurant since the start of the pandemic even if we can, so we got used to layering up to eat outside.


After Christmas, the COVID situation got pretty horrible. All restaurants shut down (except for take away and delivery), shops and non-essential services were very limited and the curfew was pulled back. Additionally, along with regional perimeter restrictions (not being able to leave the Communidad for other areas of Spain, except in very limited situations), we started having weekend perimeter restrictions in towns and cities (i.e. can't leave or enter the city of Valencia). 

Without being able to socialize in person, ducks and feral cats have been my main outside company. I have participated in virtual events and we even led a trivia quiz for the charity with which I've been volunteering.




Cautiously, things have started opening up. The national state of emergency expired, leaving all decisions in the hands of the Communidads. Valencia's curfew is now midnight and it seems European tourism, at least, is ramping up (based on the number of young Germans and French people I see around town on holiday). I think once things fully open up, we will be in for a bit of a shock. Valencia was a lively city when we lived here before (and we were right in the heart of El Carmen, one of the big nightlife spots) but apparently, prior to COVID, things were on a whole other level of crowds.

In the meantime, vaccination is going quite slowly. We got through the various stages of bureacracy for our residency and are officially registered now with our SIP card, so our local health center can contact us when it's our turn to be vaccinated. They've just approved the J&J vaccine and have been doing mass vaccinations in the park. They've been saying we'd be vaccinated by July, so we're practicing patience with hope that things may speed up.

"We don't have the vaccine but we have homemade vermouth"


Nowadays, the weather is really warming up so it's time to get out and enjoy some fresh air in Valencia bonita!

I admit to becoming a little obsessed with taking photos of flowers and street art (note: I finally gave in and started an Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/twowhotravelsam/).








Tuesday, September 22, 2020

Grounded Nomads: Nine Months in Limbo and Our Next Adventure

I previously shared the most unexpected journey we've probably ever taken, the holiday that turned into months being stuck in limbo in the U.S. I was also interviewed about our experiences on the podcast Nomadtopia Radio for the Grounded Nomads series (from which I've borrowed part of my title). Thanks to COVID-19, many of us, especially nomads, are in the same boat. As I shared at the end of that post and podcast, we were just taking it day by day. Since that time, we continued living the isolated existence we've all become too familiar with this year while trying to enjoy the moments. I feel fortunate to have work I enjoy to keep me busy (albeit sometimes a little too busy). Long walks and yoga helped me find balance. 

We were especially fortunate to be able to spend some large chunks of time at my parents' beach house in the Outer Banks. It is the perfect place to self-isolate and you can't beat the view. We enjoyed seafood meals out on the screened porch, my walks included daily duck escapades, and we took the paddle boat out for a spin a time or two. Despite slathering on the sunscreen, I even managed to develop a slight tan for the first time in years. It was lovely. 





We alternated between NC and MD with my parents. As mentioned before, we can never fully express our gratitude to them. Having a home (or homes) while we were technically homeless relieved a lot of potential stress.

As the situation unfolded in the early months and we realized we would not be returning to China anytime soon, we started formulating a plan as best we could. Planning during the coronavirus pandemic means knowing that plan is likely to change. This situation has shown us all just how adaptable we can really be and just how uncertain life really is. We had been starting to plan a transition to a new home country (well, actually somewhere we lived years ago), Spain, over the past year. So, we first worked on getting our paperwork that had been left behind in China. Luckily, a friend helped us with that (and our belongings). But, of course, right as that arrived, thing shut down in the U.S. So, we patiently waited and kept an ear to the ground about the situation.

Sometime during the summer, we found out the consulates were reopening. We worried that due to the ban on Americans traveling to Europe, we couldn't proceed. But, it's always best to ask! And, the Spanish consulate explained that if we had residency, we could travel there. 

However, most documents have a time limit and they advised we redo the expired ones, even though technically the shutdown time is supposed to be discounted. It's so easy to get frustrated and overwhelmed with this stuff, especially during a crisis when everything has an added level of difficulty. But, living overseas helps one develop perseverance and resourcefulness. We just broke down what needed to be done and began researching and tackling each task.

First was getting a new health certification (without having a primary care doctor). I emailed and called countless places. Finally, my Mom mentioned a couple places to me including Passport Health. Sure enough, they were able to help so we booked an appointment for when we would be returning to Maryland. Then there was the process of getting a new criminal records check for the time we'd been in the U.S. Slowly, but surely, we got everything into place. 

The DC consulate was quite helpful and responded to our email questions throughout. They let us make an appointment when most paperwork was in place and just the last couple pieces were missing. So, we just had to wait for that date and gather the final pieces. 

Meanwhile, we were making housing plans as we had some scheduling conflicts. So, we booked an Airbnb for a couple weeks and then another one for a couple nights around the date of our consulate appointment. These felt like mini holidays even though it was more just a temporary change in residence. Different scenery and some new places to get carryout!

Scenes from my walks in Frederick, MD and DC






Our appointment went smoothly. As usual, I was second-guessing and stressing over nothing. We were done in 15 minutes. They told us we could expect to hear from them in about 3-4 weeks. I assumed it would be more like five. Just over two weeks later, I got a voicemail asking what date we wanted on our visas!

Since then, we have worked on securing an apartment, picking flights in a time when one never knows what will actually fly, and various other little tasks involved in the move (surprisingly, not too many). We had visits with both sets of parents and I recently got to see my grandfather outside at his ALF. We came back to Maryland to wrap up things and begin repacking our stuff to fit it all into three suitcases each.

So, if the flights actually leave and no other unforeseen issues come up, we will be moving onto the next chapter in our adventures at the beginning of October!




Sunday, April 26, 2020

The Journey of Two China Expats through the COVID-19 Crisis

China: The Origin Story


While much of the world was just hearing vaguely about this "virus in China", the novel coronavirus was becoming a real concern for us as expats in China. We started hearing about it in early January from people in Wuhan, but it was still sort of a distant threat and even the word out of Wuhan then was that much of life was proceeding fairly normally. That quickly began to change. And, as a couple weeks passed, we started hearing about cases in Shanghai and getting nervous.

My husband and I had to go get a medical exam (for future visa planning) and I remember talking to our interpreter and the nurses about it. We all wore masks, but at that time there were just about 10-15 cases in Shanghai. I remember feeling especially nervous when we went to get our chest X-rays and a big group of workers came in for theirs while we waited. Most of our exam was in the "VIP" area of the hospital but the tests that required equipment were done in the main hospital. Those few days were when things really started changing.

We had a trip planned to Spain for the Chinese New Year holiday and everything was starting to shut down (as it kind of does in some ways at the holiday anyway). We wore masks, washed hands vigorously, went through temperature checks...and felt a mixture of nerves and relief when we got on the plane. We took a deep breath when we arrived in Spain, as if we had somehow "escaped the virus" (or probably more the feeling of escaping the coming "lockdowns"). Oh, hindsight...

From Holiday to Who Knows?



After about 10 days in Spain on a lovely holiday, I was due to fly to the US for another 10 days or so for two work conferences. Bryan was due to fly back to Shanghai. Somewhere along the way, I got a message from American Airlines that my flight back was canceled and they would not be going back to China until at least late April. This was the start of our truly unexpected journey.

I was constantly consuming virus updates from friends and groups in China. I truly enjoyed our holiday, but did often awake in the middle of the night with a high level of anxiety. Oddly, it never got bad in Shanghai. To this day, their numbers state there have only been a handful of deaths in the city of 25 million people. I don't know if all the #s are accurate (I don't think any country can really claim accurate numbers at this point, due to the rapid spread, lack of testing in many places, asymptomatic cases, etc.) but I do know that to this day I don't know anyone who even knows anyone who had the virus in China. Whereas I know numerous people in other countries, so there does seem to be something to the proportions.

Arriving in the US: Signs Things Were Likely to Get Worse

I proceeded with my CA trip and was shocked by how little screening the US was doing. They had banned non-citizens and foreign residents...but not, as is often claimed, banned flights from China or any other countries. When I arrived at LAX, I came in just as about 3 flights from China landed. The customs line was a mile long and I expected this was due to vigilant screening. What a surprise to walk through as usual, with no temperature checks or any overarching screening being done. The only difference was they were pulling more people from the China flight to the side for additional screening (but definitely not all or even most of them). They never asked me any questions about my travel history.

What to Do?

I spoke at one conference in San Jose, visited Apple headquarters, and then headed back to LA. There was vague talk about the virus and some unfortunate racism towards Asians and Chinatown businesses, but that was about it. I then had a few days to work from an amazing Airbnb in LA before heading to the next conference (and enjoyed a lot of delicious food in Ktown). I got a message from Airbnb saying I could cancel with a full refund due to the coronavirus situation, but that was really about it for the role the virus was playing then.




In the meantime, Bryan decided to extend his stay in Spain and we arranged a different (smaller, more affordable) Airbnb for him. He enjoyed some relaxing time there, though he was in the kind of limbo we have all now grown to know. At first, he was set to return to Shanghai a couple weeks later. We were in touch with people in Shanghai, some of whom said if you can avoid it, wait it out and don't come back (including our landlord). Various friends were struggling with these same decisions, scattered about, stuck in holiday destinations, some separated from family and pets and trying to decide on the right thing to do. After calls to different people at KLM, he was able to get a refund (well, none of these refunds have actually come through, but we've been promised they are "in process", now delayed by a couple months since the original promise) and booked a one-way flight to the east coast of the US where I would meet up with him.

We were lucky that my parents have an apartment in Maryland they don't use during the winter months, so we headed there. I am beyond grateful to them for being so generous with everything. They had to make changes to their car insurance and cable/internet plan and incur greater costs to accommodate us being there.

At first, life was proceeding in a somewhat normal fashion. I even took the train up to visit a friend who lives outside of Philly and surprise another friend in town for work.


Since I was staying in the US for now, I offered to attend a conference in Florida. One colleague opted out as he had a baby at home and the virus talk was getting more worrisome. We opted for a road trip to Florida, partly to save money and allow for a more leisurely trip and partly with the thought of avoiding airports (though perhaps hotels weren't much better). The conference proceeded, minus handshakes and with added hand sanitizer. That was probably one of the last in-person events for quite some time. We had numerous conference sponsorships lined up, and so far they've all been canceled through at least August. Within a week or so, Florida's cases started creeping up. But, we got the chance to see friends and family first.



After visiting my parents, we started making our way back to Maryland. I remember an increasing sense of anxiety about the virus and being exposed with bathroom breaks, hotels, and restaurant stops. But, I also look back fondly on those last days of traveling. And, we even got to stop and stay with a good friend along the way.


Lockdowns

We pretty much arrived back to Maryland just in time. I remember going to the store, but then deciding to go out to dinner as we remarked it may be one of the last opportunities for a while. While I think a lot of people here envisioned these shutdowns being a couple weeks, we'd been to this rodeo before...or at least heard all about it, from our friends who'd been on "lockdown" in China. Things started shutting down and soon the Governor closed all but essential services. We settled in and started thinking about slightly longer-term decisions now that our journey had landed us here.

Tough Decisions

Throughout this time, we had considered trying to get flights back to China. Early on, we thought it was not wise due to what seemed like a risky situation in China. Then, we became worried due to the quarantine process and restrictions there. They were being quite strict and arriving passengers had to do a 14-day quarantine after a pretty lengthy arrival process. You could do it in your apartment, but you were first taken to be tested and await results, and, if negative, you could go to your apartment if conditions were right (no roomates, etc. though families could be together). You had to stay 100% in your apartment during the 14 days, with daily temperature checks. Depending on the date and district, you may be locked in or have an alarm on the door, etc. And, if you tested positive or there were any concerns, you had to go to a facility directly (eventually, they removed the option of quarantining at home and everyone went to a facility which was really a hotel turned into a quarantining facility).

While a little inconvenience is well worth it for safety, it was tough to make that choice when we had options. And, then I committed to the conference and we were in the midst of the trip. And by the time we arrived back, it was feeling like a bad idea to expose one's self to travel. At so many points, we struggled to know the right thing to do.

All our belongings, minus the one suitcase we each had, were in China. And, of course, we had left thinking we were going away for a week or two. But, as time passed, we saw this was going to be a while...

So, we struggled with continuing to pay rent. And, our lease was almost up anyway. We didn't even really know how we would renew that not being there and didn't really want to pay to keep the place while we were stuck elsewhere indefinitely. So, we made the hard decision to give up our home and get some items packed and shipped to us.

Fortunately, one of the best things about our time in Shanghai has been the many connections and friends we've made. Shanghai (and China more generally) seems to always have a service to meet every need or a way to get things done, if you know how and who. So, through my many WeChat groups, I linked up with a service that helps people pack and ship (or store) belongings, even if you can't be there. Unlike the big moving companies, they would help even if you had few belongings to send. We had no furniture and had always planned to leave just with extra suitcases, the same way we arrived seven years prior.

Our ayi ("auntie", the word used for caretakers such as nannies and housekeepers in China) had our key, so she met our friend and the packers at the apartment. In the middle of the night our time, we did a video call with them to pick out what to pack. We foisted a number of things on our friend and ayi (I say foisted, but I think they got some pretty nice stuff, though we wish they'd let us do more for their time and efforts). It was surreal seeing our home of over five years and all our belongings through the screen, knowing this was goodbye. They methodically went through our closets, drawers, etc. with us. We had prepared a list beforehand (to be honest, I'd started doing this when awake in the middle of the night with anxiety as early as our Spain holiday). It was over amazingly fast. And, we had the belongings within a couple weeks.

We gave the key to another friend, who went and got a few more items and helped us do a final look around the place. He then "kuaidi'd" the key to our landlord (got it delivered). And, like that, it was done. For now. We hope it won't be our final goodbye to Shanghai. I really think we need a real goodbye to the place and people that gave us so much.

What Now? One Day at a Time

We don't know what the future will hold. Of course, when do we ever? We have been lamenting over the use of the phrase "in these uncertain times" lately. It bothers both of us because everything is always uncertain and impermanent. But, I know we all like the illusion of control and this all feels especially unsettling. I'd still like to see commercials stop using that phrase, though.

After all this dwelling over different decision points, it is sort of a relief to really not be able to make any decisions for now. Our focus, as for so many, is just on staying healthy and doing our day-to-day tasks. We are enjoying a return to cooking and a less frenzied pace. After years with a tiny kitchen and eating out almost every night, this certainly is nice on the budget and the chef of the family loves having an oven and so many options. 



We're fortunate that we can get outside. In this suburban setting, it is easy to do without being around other people. The local golf course closed, so I now have a whole new space for walks.



What we have learned throughout this journey is that you can't put exact timelines on it or know what will happen. You have to truly take things one day at a time. I am grateful for SO much. We are fortunate, we have a lot. And, as a friend mentioned to me, perhaps we were especially well-prepared for this as we have learned to be adaptable over the years. We have a lot of freedom and flexibility. I am especially grateful for all the wonderful people in our lives. 

I am also so thankful that we embraced all the adventures we did. There were many times we hesitated...should we spend money on this trip, event or expensive dinner? I don't regret a single thing I choose to do, but I know, especially now, I would regret missed opportunities. This is one of my favorite quotes (commonly attributed to Mark Twain, though it appears this may be an internet myth). We will sail away again, but for now we are happy to have a safe harbor.