Campeones! Spain and Fútbol...

We have truly adopted our "home away from home" country of Spain, including developing a raving passion for soccer (fútbol/football/footie).  We got to attend a local Valencia game at Mestalla stadium, furthering our new-found passion.  So, of course, we have been right there with our adopted countrymen watching the Eurocup 2012.  We planned our schedules to ensure we were at our favorite local hang outs to watch all the matches and the enthusiasm was contagious.

Spain is passionate about its football, as is much of Europe, and Spain's team has consistently delivered with championships.  The Eurocup was to be the "triple crown" for Spain, after winning the 2008 Eurocup and the 2010 World Cup.  With each game, the excitement grew and the red and yellow spread.

A boost to the dismal Spanish economy?

Flags can be added to balconies, cars, even bikes!

Your ice cream cone now comes with a complimentary Spanish flag!

Yes, the Ale Hop mascot even joined in!

We joined in, buying t-shirts and gladly painting our face, arms, etc. with the little Spanish flags (how kind of Cruzcampo to provide handy little paint sticks to the bars!).  In the constant bad news about Spain's economy and the recent "bail out", football provided some positive news and levity (though ardent fans might argue with me about the levity).  In Valencia, this was even more pronounced as horrible wild fires burnt in the province.  People criticized the government cutbacks and the officials' choice of attending the match over visiting the devastated area.  As you can see, the people, stores and bars were all geared up...and hopefully the activity gave some small businesses a bit of a boost.  The "sobre manta" sellers (street vendors, generally illegally selling things they carry or place on top of blankets/sheets, thus the name) stocked up on red and yellow hats, t-shirts, patriotic sunglasses and noise horns.

We chose a local spot to watch the game after we tried in vain to figure out if there was going to be an open air viewing on a big screen (only to see the pictures afterwards of the large crowds at Nuevo Centro and get an email about it from Couchsurfing--oh well!).  We reserved a table and joined a very international crowd, all cheering for Spain however.

Spain is criticized for being a boring team at times in the media.  I personally would pick a boring, winning team as my team any day--they're effective for sure.  And, boy is that goalie amazing--people were calling for Saint Iker's official beatification on Twitter (the game set a Twitter record for most tweets/second for a sporting event and I loved following the commentary and excitement of some of my fellow "Spain twits").

It was an amazing game for Spain fans.  As this Yahoo News story states, Spain define the word domination both in gaining the three titles and in shutting out Italy for a 4-0 victory. 

As soon as the game ended, we went in search of the celebrations.  We had a feeling Plaza Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) would be one of the gathering places, and within a few minutes people begin streaming in to the plaza in all their red and yellow glory.  A big train of guys pushing their friend in a shopping cart, large crowds singing, guys with massive flags on building height poles, and fireworks (of course!)--well, the pictures give you a better idea:

 

And my three favorite pictures of the night:

The most adorable niña taking it all in n her Dad's shoulders

An excited young fan climbing a pole and waving his flag with Town Hall in background

They should have repainted it red and YELLOW!

A constant round of...
"Yo soy...
...Español
...Español
...Español!" was being sung in the crowds and we joined in many times.  While it may not technically be true, en nuestros corazones somos españoles.  Especially on a night like this one!

The Tale of Two Cities

Madrid and Barcelona are, respectively, the two largest cities in Spain, both by physical size and population, but in terms of culture they could not be more different. We recently had the opportunity to spend a week in Barcelona, with a short side trip to Madrid.

After spending several months in Spain and experiencing a majority of the country, Barcelona is the last place I will recommend for someone looking to go to Spain on a short vacation... ok, second to last just ahead of Benidorm. Don't get me wrong, Barcelona is not a bad place but seemed the least Spanish of any of the places we've been in Spain. This is partly due to the Catalan culture that makes a point of separating itself from the rest of the country. The other part is that it is absolutely flooded with tourists and not in a charming, "oh, you're here from the US too" kind of way. Experiencing Barcelona for a week or less finds the city short on quality, overpriced and overrated.

Perhaps if one had a month or longer to spend in Barcelona, the view might be different. The few times we were able to get out of the touristy areas and blend in with the locals were most enjoyable. The challenge is finding these areas in this large and spread out city.

Pickpocketing is a serious problem in Barcelona. You will hear this everywhere and for as prepared as you feel, it will hit you when you least expect it. You must be on full alert... constantly. Now in all fairness it is not the US, so you're not likely to get randomly shot, mugged, carjacked or raped... just pick pocketed. However, you should count on a pickpocketing attempt to happen to you while you're there. Perhaps consider it part of the Barcelona experience... see the nearly 20 year old Olympic ruins, the Sagrada Familia, the Gaudi architecture, Las Ramblas, get pick pocketed and return home. We (and our friends visiting from the US) knew of the pickpocketing problem and took all precautions to prevent it. Hurrying to catch the green line metro from Sants, with suitcases in tow we must have looked the perfect targets. A couple guys entering the train in front of us suddenly wanted to get off the train, while their 'partners' were behind us pushing to get on. This created the perfect 'sandwich' for them to attempt to clear our pockets. However when one has nothing in their pockets, there is nothing to steal and so this turned out to be just a quick 'TSA pat down' and the would be thieves left empty handed. I call this out because it is so pervasive that everyone should be aware and expect it when you least expect it... it is not always subtle.

Here is a great article that talks about the scams and ways to protect against them while in Barcelona. It is just no fun to have to be on guard every second you're trying to enjoy the experience of a new place. However, if you are overly-cautious and bring only what you're willing to get stolen with you when you leave the house... you will survive. It doesn't hurt to try to fit in with the locals and not make yourself a target by outwardly appearing to be a tourist.

As for Barcelona itself - the city is clean and the public transportation is cheap and efficient. The city does have some charm. The 'Magic Fountain' is just off of Plaza Espanya and on weekend nights it has a very nice water display choreographed to music. Barcelona has a nice hop-on/hop-off bus tour with 2 routes through the city (3 in the summer) that hit the popular spots. The former Bull Ring converted into shopping mall is popular. The Gothic District just off the Ramblas is reminiscent, albeit much more touristy and expensive, of the Old Towns we've seen in other Spanish cities. The Picasso Museum is quite good.

There are some nice neighborhood tapas bars and taverns in the Poble Sec area of town on either side of The Paral-lel. There were a few stand outs. 'Lolita', a small, modern tapas bar with an excellent variety of seafood, beef and veggies. 'Casa Jacinta', a tiny, old tapas bar with excellent food, drink and rock-n-roll atmosphere served by the owners. On the other side of The Paral-lel is 'Raxeria', a tap on your table, pour your own beer bar... quickly becoming my favorite kind of place.

The highlight of Barcelona for me was not actually in Barcelona, but an hour train ride out of town... Montserrat. This is a small tourist town built around a working Monastery at the top of a mountain. There are several ways to get up to Montserrat, we chose the 'gondola' over the train. The funicular was under repair and closed the day we went. The Basilica is beautiful and the town has wonderful views of the surrounding areas and the valley looking toward Barcelona.

Overall Barcelona was nice to see and I am happy we went, but it is very easy to hit the few highlights worth seeing in a day or two. For fans of Gaudi, the city does not disappoint and aside from that, one does not need a lot of time here. It is an overly expensive place, especially for what you get and the quality compared to other cities in Spain.

Madrid on the other hand, was fantastic. There is no doubt you are in Spain, and the capital no less, from the second you enter. We took the high speed AVE train from Barcelona that gets you into Madrid in around 3 hours. Driving would take more than 6.

We stayed at a very nice hotel - Hotel Opera, which is just off Plaza Isabelle II near the Opera House, Theater and Palace. Our first night there we we joined 'The Old Madrid Tapas and Wine Walking Tour'. The host, Andres, is very knowledgeable about wine and took us through the oldest part of Madrid, popping in and out of tapas bars sampling the house specialty at each place. We tasted Spanish vermouth which although dark amber in color, actually starts as a white wine. Up to 40 different spices are added as it ages. Very tasty on its own - on the rocks with a slice of orange, or in a martini. As we discovered, if you want to try this tasty unique vermouth, ask for "vermut de grifo" (on tap) and make sure it is poured from the wooden barrel. The Tapas tour is well worth the 60 euro (includes all the food and wine) a person. We sampled fantastic wines and ate enough tapas that we were full and satisfied. This is a must if in Madrid.

Our second day in Madrid we took the obligatory trip to The Prado Museum which is vast and worth seeing, even if it is just a quick pass through. You could, of course, spend all day (or more than one) at The Prado, but there is so much more to see in Madrid. We enjoyed a great lunch
just across from the Market San Miguel and ended our day by taking in a Bull Fight.

Before taking the afternoon AVE train back to Barcelona, we spent our last morning in Madrid touring the Palace. The 3rd largest in the Europe, the Madrid Palace is typical of European Palaces and worth the trip. The line to get in was long, but it moved at a steady pace. The view from the main courtyard overlooking the countryside was vast. The Cathedral is situated right next to the Palace, but as it was under renovation we were only able to see the outside... next time.

Just walking the streets of Madrid, viewing the Spanish architecture, people, culture and town plazas is a treat in and of itself. Cheerful (and somewhat talented) musicians play for money in the subway cars while locals sometimes sing along and tourists get a laugh. When people think of Spain, they typically think of Andalucia - Seville, Granada, the White Hill towns - sunshine, beaches, Flameno, Sherry, Grand Cathedrals, etc. and with good reason, however while Andalucia may be the soul of Spain, Madrid is definitely its heart. Our few days there were just enough to whet our thirst for more. The next time we are in this wonderful country, Madrid and a minimum of a week there is at the top of the itinerary.

Bull Fighting in Spain

Bull Fighting dates back to 711AD and like it or not, is the National Sport of Spain. It is also seen in parts of France, Portugal, Mexico and Central/South America. In Spain, there are hundreds of cities that stage Bull Fighting and most are in the Andalucia region. We've seen the 'Plaza de Toros' (Bull Ring) in Seville, Valencia and Granada. However, according to the locals the place to see a Bull Fight (outside of Andalucia) is in Madrid. The Bull Fighting season runs from March to October and similar to other sports, starts with a 'pre-season'.

Our recent trip to Madrid (accompanied by good friends from the US) enabled us to catch one of the final pre-season matches for 2011. Pre-season is really no different from other Bull Fights except the Matadors are young novices trying to gain popularity in the sport.

I was recently asked, "so they kill the bull, right?" Yes, and 5 to 7 more. Each "match" lasts around 15-20 minutes from the time the bull enters the ring, until they drag its dead body out. I call it a "match" but in reality the bull doesn't really stand a chance. Although we did see one pass where the bull got hold of the Matador, flipped him airborne and came close to trampling him. The other Matadors, assistants and men on horses quickly came to his rescue and distracted the bull. It happens but is rare. In that match, score one for the bull.

When we were in Seville we toured the Bull Fighting museum. Our guide told us how many years ago, in the 1950's I think, one of Spain's most celebrated Matadors was killed in a match. She then pointed to this killer bull's head mounted on the wall, next to its mother. After they put the killer bull down, they killed its mother so that she would never produce another killer bull.

Bull Fighting is not pretty, but does have a beautiful artistry and ceremony to it. It is bloody, cruel and has to be seen to really be understood. I am not advocating the sport or recommending everyone sees a Bull Fight, but when in Rome... or in this case Spain. It is truly unique and very, very Spanish.

The next part of this post describes a match... and in some detail, so be warned.

A match starts by several Matador's assistants (Picadors) and Horsemen (Rejoneadores) teasing and angering the bull. This is in an attempt to gauge the bull's behavior and reactions. After about 5 minutes of this, the Horsemen stabs the bull in the shoulder once to twice to start the bleeding. The Matador's assistants have the bull take several passes at them while they attempt to drive Banderillas (long decorative spikes) into the bull's back. Once the bull is further weakened and made more bloody by the Banderillas, the Matador throws his hat into the ring and comes out to finish off the bull.

The Matador and bull perform a sort-of dance to the death as the bull makes many charging passes. The Matador is judged by his skill and artistry at getting the bull to charge and successfully avoiding getting gored in the process. After the bull has made many passes and the Matador is ready, he is presented with his killing sword, or Espada. This time it's the Matador that charges at the bull and attempts to drive the Espada into the bull's heart. If he misses, he is booed by the crowd and tries again until he succeeds. The bull will then fall to the ground and will finally be put out of it's misery as the Matador drives a Puntilla (small dagger) into the base of bull's skull severing it's spinal cord. Lastly, the dead bull is attached to horses and dragged out of the ring. Within minutes, a new match starts. Most Bull Fights consist of 6 or 8 matches.

People say, you either love bull fighting or hate it. I'm not sure how I feel about it. I imagine in the dead of summer, with seats in the shade among a packed arena of fans and more experienced Matadors is a better way to see a Bull Fight. I would like to experience that, perhaps with a local fan who can better explain the history, culture and sport. I'm not sure my sensibilities would allow me to become an ardent supporter, but I think to travel is to explore, be open and learn more before judging via those sensibilities.

Las Fallas

Las Fallas (fie-yas) is a tradition in the Valencian region of Spain, is one of the biggest festivals of the year and takes place in the weeks leading up to St. Joseph´s Day on March 19.

Fallas (Falles in Valencian) began as a festival celebrated by the local artisans in honor of St. Joseph. In the Valencian Community this festival dates back to the mid-1700´s, when it was just a small part of the general St. Joseph´s Day celebrations. At daybreak on March 18th small straw stages appeared in the streets on which one 1 or 2 doll-like figures were displayed depicting in a satirical way, some local event, misconduct or town personality. During the course of the day, the local children collected as much combustible material as they could find and constructed large trash heaps which they called fallas. At dusk, on the eve of St. Joseph´s Day these fallas were set on fire as the town people gathered to watch them burn.

The Fallas in Dénia started in the early 1900´s when a group of locals would make a fabric figure filled with seaweed, they they named ¨Tio Pep¨ (Uncle Joe). On St. Joseph´s Day they paraded this figure around town and eventually set it on fire atop a mountain of old furniture and other household trash that would easily burn. As the years passed, more groups became involved, each creating their own figures. The special characteristic of these satirical fallas is that they are intended to portray a criticism of social policy. They choose a specific topic and give it either a satirical or humorous twist, representing scenes alluding to personalities, events or political actions which the falleros (members of the fallas groups) consider worthy to be made fun of.

Today, Fallas in Dénia has evolved into many groups working all year to raise money and commission the building of their individual fallas, which can run in excess of 80,000 euro. These groups are very large and the members consist of all ages. For the children, special fallas are commissioned by the groups. These are not political or satirical, just more ¨cute¨ and cartoonish... but of course, these are also eventually burned.

The fallas themselves are extremely elaborate and very large, some are 5 and 6 stories tall. The order in which the fallas are burned is of significant importance. Each falla, both large and children´s is (independently) voted on by the main Fallas committee with the winner in each category getting burned last... usually around 3am on the 20th.

In the week leading up to March 19th, the fallas begin to take shape as they are constructed in their respective area of the city. Each day at 2 and 7pm there is a massive fireworks display. There are tons of members-only activities for the fallas groups that take place throughout the week. While walking the city streets and eating in the local restaurants you are sure to see the members in costume enjoying the entire Fallas experience. On March 17th (who´s St. Patrick?) they announce the ¨winners¨ and there is more partying.

St. Joseph´s Day and Las Fallas, starts early with a very long parade that includes all of the members (from elderly to infant) of the groups. They parade through main street carrying flowers that will be used to construct ´Our Lady of the Foresaken´ in front of the main church. The parade ends with yet another fireworks display before Siesta.

The evening is kicked off by a fireworks display and there is club like atmosphere in the streets. Instead of music, the beat is provided by children lighting firecrackers, while the parents admire the fallas, eat and drink. Street vendors sell balloons, toys and food. At around 9pm, the cremá of the fallas begins. If you aren´t sure of the order in which they will burn, just follow the crowds or a fire brigade.

Each falla is loaded with cardboard and paper, and doused with gasoline before the lights are dimmed. Fireworks (what else?) are set off around the falla and if that doesn't set it ablaze, then they just throw lit fireworks on to it. The crowd ¨oo´s and ah´s¨ as these things burn. There is cheering when it finally falls, amidst the fire fighters trying to keep the very close buildings, trees and people from also going up in flames.

The burning process is systematic and actually pretty safe considering the flames from the big ones shoot into the sky higher than most of the buildings. Even more surprising is the apparent lack of injures (or parental concern) from all of the firecrackers being constantly set off by the children... of course, we didn´t stop by the Emergency Room to view the waiting area.

For as much as we heard about Fallas beforehand and sortof knew what to expect, it was difficult to really understand this bizarre, but incredibly wild and fun festival without seeing it, so I did my best to condense my hours of Las Fallas footage into this short (4.5 min) video.

Benidorm

Benidorm is such an odd little place that I felt it deserved a small write up. On the opposite end of the L9 Alicante tram line from Dénia, the best way to describe Benidorm is as a Monty Python sketch (of hell). It's a beautiful place with a fantastic beach, but when look beyond your beautiful natural surroundings...

Benedorm is where the British come to play, get away from harsh English winters and show off their tattoos . It is also where they retire. If you don't want to feel old, go to Benidorm. The paseo along the beach is a great people watching spot. There are too many English pubs to count, a few very cheesy "American" bars, usually with some dude doing bad covers of Jimmy Buffet, and a McDonalds next door to the Burger King. Every night from 4 to 9pm there is a "nice" restaurant on the paseo where a small orchestra plays and the retirees dress in their suits and evening wear for some dinner and dancing... often times, they get bad lines that aren't quite sing-able... it is quite a scene. Benidorm Palace is the major entertainment venue and tourist trap.

Benidorm is not all bad... in fact, it can make for a very fun day or weekend. We found the Amsteleria, a nice little bar with your own personal beer tap on your table. Have a seat, grab a mug and fill up. The digital read out on the tap counts the amount of beer you pour. Have a pint or two, a tapa or two and pay on your way out. Benedorm also has "El Payaso" Bar... The Clown. We just had to stop in. It just opened and the owners, a couple from Holland, were very friendly offering us a tapa and free shot of caramel vodka to go along with our pint. The gems in Benidorm are in plain sight, but hard to see amidst the high rises and crowds. If you go, bring a sense of humor and a lot of patience... Think County Fair, Orlando and Branson mixed together, served with mash and a side of mushy peas.

¨On second thought, let´s not go to Camelot... It is a silly place¨

Ten Most Memorable Travel Moments

When we get beyond sightseeing, travel allows us to get to know people from near and far, marvel at our similarities and embrace our differences. Such moments make up my richest travel memories.

1. Being driven back to our hotel by the bus driver and his wife after accidentally riding the last bus “to the end of the line” in an Austrian village.
2. Getting to know our hosts and friends in Spain over a sun-soaked welcome lunch of homemade paella.
3. Hanging out at a tiny bar in Kufstein, Austria, meeting new friends as they gulped down a (then) mysterious concoction of Red Bull and Vodka from IV bags hung above the bar.
4. Learning how our young Russian tour guide’s mother developed her art appreciation with weekly visits to the St. Petersburg museums.
5. Becoming part of the Sunday family stroll along the Mediterranean in Spain.
6. A delicious Moroccan lunch, haggling over carpets and getting to know the other couple on our Tangier tour, who happened to be from our hometown.
7. Running across the corporate table at Oktoberfest and getting invited to sit with “coworkers” from Germany for beer and pretzels.
   
8. Bustling among the local ladies tasting and purchasing our weekly produce at the city market in Denia.
   
9. Watching all the kids in universally-popular costumes parading through the streets at Carnavale in Venice.
10. Wistfully listening to stories of many expat entrepreneurs who decided to turn travel adventures in to new lives.

This post has been entered in to the GranTourismo HomeAway Holiday-Rentals travel blogging competition. Check out HomeAway Holiday-Rentals for holiday rentals around the world.

A roadtrip across the South of Spain

Andalucia -
by Bryan

Our recent bus trip to Gibraltar introduced us to the Andalucia region in the south of Spain and showed us just enough that we wanted to see more. We decided to go back on our own this time, with a rental car, to spend a week in the region to sample its diverse towns, cities and history. It also provided a very convenient way to take the ferry across the Straight of Gibraltar to Morocco and spend a day in Tangier. Morocco post here.


Granada:

Our first stop in Andalucia was Granada, a wonderfully large and diverse city with a very different feel than anywhere we've been so far in Spain. Granada is overlooked by the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains and the Alhambra--an ancient and grand Moorish palace. After finding our hotel and getting settled in the Albacin district , we started to explore the city's many plazas, shopping districts and tapas bars. It is entirely possible to never be hungry in Granada and never spend a cent on food. Every restaurant provides free tapas when you order a drink. We've seen this throughout Spain, but it's really just a nibble of peanuts, olives or potato chips. Not really all that different from the US, except here you never have to ask. In Granada however, you get a full size appetizer. Usually hot, delicious and whatever they want it to be... meat stew, deep fried fish, deviled eggs, jamon sandwiches, veggie or potato salads, tuna and so forth. Point being, you could pay for food in Granada, but why? We went into restaurants, sat at the bar and ordered a glass of the cheap house wine each (which is very very good and at most costs about $4) and got enough uniquely different and fantastic tapas to fill us up along our “tapa tour”.

Personally, I think the free tapas are just an attempt to lure you from The Alhambra. The place is massive, meticulously landscaped and what an incredible history. It was first built by the Moors in the 700s when they occupied southern Spain, then the Romans, English and every other Empire along the way. You can see the influence of each as the place just seems to never end. From the oldest and highest spot, the bell tower, you have the best panoramic views of the city. We spent about four hours there and although we covered all the points on the free map they give you upon entering, we still feel there was so much more to see.

The city is a modern thriving metropolis with ancient buildings, churches and history as its backdrop. From the narrow pedestrian malls to the city squares, it is definitely a must-see in Spain.



Vejer De La Frontera:

This “white hill town” just a bit south of Spain's most western point is, well... just really cool. We were there in the off-season, so it's mainly just locals. All of the houses and buildings are painted white in this multi-tiered town. Getting just a bit lost on the way in, thanks to GPS, we found our hotel by getting in taxi only to have the cabbie laugh as we told him our destination. It was literally right around the corner. It technically was faster to walk there. Our hotel was an old convent remodeled into a hotel. Vejer has authentic Spanish restaurants and, surprisingly, modern bars and shops mixed with an ancient castle and churches over looking Andalucia – one can only imagine this “frontier” town in the days of the Catholic reconquest of Spain.


Jerez De La Frontera:

After a short drive, we were at our next stop on the journey – Jerez De La Frontera.

This region's claim to fame is Sherry. As we were there in the off-season and a Sunday, there was not a lot going on. However, we saw the town's Sunday flea-market - really a giant yard sale. Most people had a small table or two selling used books, old bottles, nicknacks, clothes, stuffed animals and old electronics including VCRs, cell phones and power adapters. It seemed every other table had an electrical spaghetti of random power cords for all kinds of unknown devices. It was such an odd assortment stuff. I guess the phrase - “la basura de uno hombre es el tesoro de otro hombre” applies in Spain as well.

We took a tour of the Tio Pepe Sherry bodega (the largest in Spain) and learned about the history and process of Sherry and Brandy making. It is interesting to note that you will not find a year of production on a bottle of Sherry. Each bottle is made with several year's vintages so that the quality will be consistent even if there is a bad harvest in any given year.

We tasted some Sherry and after Siesta, we enjoyed a great dinner at a local spot recommended by our hotel, La Cruz Blanca.


Sevilla:

The last stop on our Andalucian tour was Seville, or Sevilla here.

Once the Capitol of Spain, and from where Christopher Columbus sailed before discovering America in 1492. Seville is also the home of the largest gothic cathedral in the world, which is home to Columbus' grave. Our hotel was right in the middle of town and was very convenient to check out the city by foot. We toured the cathedral, the bull fighting ring and museum, as well as taking in a traditional Flamenco show and of course, ate some really great food.

From Sevilla, it was short 8 hour drive (which I did in 7) and we were back home to Dénia. What an awesome week.

Snapshots from Spain

A snapshot of some of our day-to-day Spain experiences:

• Going to the city market to purchase fruits, vegetables and meat…the market is a bustling little place, with a few small bars/cafes where men sit drinking beer and snacking through the morning. On special days, the surrounding streets are filled with vendors with a huge array of fresh fruit, vegetables, herbs and nuts. You try some of the oranges, taste a fig, and jump in to get the best of the produce. The inside stalls sell everything from sausages to meat, chicken and dried seafood, plus baked goods, German products (the area has a large German contingent), deli meats and cheeses.

• Taking the FGV train (more a tram) from our small town throughout the Costa Blanca. The journey is quite scenic, but not a very efficient mode of simply getting from one place to the next—more a journey ideal for sightseers like us. It is used by many locals as a commuting method, as well as the high school students who travel some distance to school. We traveled a beautiful journey along the coast, winding through the mountains and arriving in Benidorm.

Benidorm is a large resort town, filled with European retirees. We walked through the crowded high rises down the old town and to the paseo along the beach, where Northern European retirees crowded the beach cafes and bars offering cheap food and drinks. Sometimes you have to just enjoy tackiness in all its glory, including the “American” biker bar, cheap souvenir shops and 2 for 1 drink offers galore.

• Taking a Sunday afternoon stroll along the waterfront with the crowd of locals, enjoying the varied scenery of the rocky coastline, the beautiful holiday homes and people watching. Today’s walk was even more exciting because the wind is stirring up the waves, so the surf was pounding and surfers were even catching some waves down along the Rotes beach.

• Getting a recommendation for the best area in town for tapas and finding the spots packed with locals. Doing the tapas stroll, having a glass of wine and a snack from place to place (and trying to figure out what some of the different foods are, with our limited Spanish…and being daring enough to occasionally try them even if we aren’t sure).

• Eating the delicious paella and local seafood. I don’t think I can ever have paella in a U.S. restaurant anymore—I had been to some supposedly wonderful Spanish restaurants before, but I have now been spoiled. I guess I’m going to be a bit of a paella snob from now on…

Cultural Observations

Here are a few of the things we have observed living in Spain:

• Jamon (pork) is HUGE here. I had heard it before coming, but you have to absorb it in daily life to understand...it is definitely the primary and favorite source of protein. You can buy a huge pork leg and a special device to hold and slice it at the neighborhood grocery store or even the local roadside gas station/self-service restaurant. There is serrano ham, iberico ham, chorizo and various other forms of sausage. Jamon iberico, especially the "black hooved" pigs who feed on acorns, is supposed to be the pinnacle form. Being a person who doesn't favor pork, I am fortunate that in this coastal region seafood is equally ubiquitous, though I have tried to experience the culture by tasting some of the pork. The best dish I tasted thus far was a bowl of chorizo (not spicy) in red wine sauce. It's hard not to love culture that treasures jamon and wine. Even a package of snack-mix we recently purchased had pig shaped crackers among the "standard" shapes.
• Dogs are extremely popular. I cannot speak to whether this is a countrywide phenomena, or specific to our town/region, but almost every household owns a dog and there is little concern about their barking. Many cats roam as well, but a dog seems to be a must. Maybe this isn't anything cultural, just something I notice because of walking around a lot?
• The siesta schedule remains alive and well. Despite apparent efforts to move to a more universal schedule (and calls from women's groups for more family-friendly work schedules), almost all businesses close for a few hours mid-afternoon. The meal schedule generally remains traditional as well, with bigger, later lunches and dinner being served at around 9 PM. In the tourist areas, restaurants may accommodate preferences for earlier dinners but you will not see many Spaniards in the restaurant before 9-9:30.
• Things move on island time, or in this case peninsula time. No one seems in a hurry, anywhere. Life comes at its pace and trying to change or hurry it is, well... pointless. Moreover it is frustrating and unnecessary. Go with the flow.
• Futbol is THE sport. Players are celebrities and you have to watch (and loudly cheer on) your team. On a recent evening out, we got to watch the big game with the locals in a bar--and by locals, I mean the men. The women all sat on the other side of the establishment playing Bingo.
• A favorite activity is el paseo. In many towns, there are wide walking areas where couples, families and friends gather to take a stroll...on a nice evening or Sunday afternoon, everyone seems to be out.
• People often enjoy a wine or beer...just about any time. You rarely see anyone having a soda with food...perhaps coffee, but more typically a glass of wine. There seems to be more enjoyment of a drink, less getting drunk. And, the wine is super-inexpensive (You can buy a bottle for 3 Euro in the grocery store..and it's not horrible, actually quite good. Or, better yet, find a place with large casks and fill your empty plastic water jug for 2 Euro/liter!).

All in all, a pretty wonderful culture...

Nuestra Casa: Our Spanish Home Away From Home

The View from Our Balcony: Denia, Spain: As I sit sipping my coffee in my dining room while alternately viewing the Mediterranean and the Montgo mountain, I feel at once transported to another world, yet at home.

We will call Spain home for about three months. Things feel different when you have that kind of time as compared to the harried adrenaline rush of the typical vacation, jumping from hotel to hotel and back home in a week. Some of the joys we have experienced so far include:

• Strolling (el paseo) along the Mediterranean with all the locals on Sunday afternoon, a leisurely walk through town punctuated by a café, cana (small beer) or tinto (red wine) on the sidewalk.

• Visiting the city market, not only to admire the local delicacies, but with the necessity of negotiating in elementary Spanish to stock our home.

• Wearing out our soles walking everywhere, happening across hidden spots while watching everyone go about daily life (being in a resort area during off season makes this time even more unique as tourists are few).

• Feeling excited to come home after a tour to Gibraltar, pining for “my” Montgo and sea view. Settling in, cooking a good meal and having time to soak in the journey, reading a book about Spanish history or watch a football game.

Observing, wandering, smelling and tasting...improving our language skills...feeling just a bit like a local, but with the sense of wonder that can wear off at home...an ideal way to travel.

This post has been entered in to the GrandTourismo HomeAway Holiday-Rentals travel blogging contest. For more info. visit HomeAway Holiday-Rentals site.

Paella with New Friends

Continuing our warm welcome to Spain, our host invited us to lunch at her home in our first full day here. Her friend, Juan, who we had met the evening before, is known for his paella and was to be our chef. Our host's husband met us outside our condo and we walked to Juan's nearby home. We did our best to converse--I have felt good about how much Spanish I am able to understand and more keeps coming to me, but my speaking skills are very rudimentary. The aroma of the paella immediately caused my stomach to rumble in happy anticipation. Juan was cooking it in a large paella pan on an outdoor stovetop. We sat for a few minutes in the outdoor kitchen and shared a glass or rose wine. I felt like I had been transported to a TV show I had been watching over the last few months ("Spain on the Road" in which Gwyneth Paltrow, Mario Battagli and friends travel around Spain, mostly eating) as it did not feel real...the sun, the smells, the kindness of our hosts...perfecto!

We took a tour of Juan's garden and pool area. The garden is absolutely filled with fruit trees and we received a bag of tangerines to take with us and an invitation to come and get fruit any time. Shortly thereafter the paella was ready, so Juan loaded the large pan in to the back of his van and we were on our way.

Our host's holiday home is a bit further out of town, along the coastal road. The property is simply stunning, settled in to the hillside with the mountain over your shoulder and overlooking the Mediterranean. We were given the choice of sitting inside or on the large porch over the sea-outside, of course! As we sat down to the table overflowing with delicious food and looked out to sea with the sun shining down on us, I felt I was in my TV show (or a dream) again.

The chef did not disappoint with his paella--it put any previous paella I have tasted to shame. The flavor lived up to the aroma. Chock full of shrimp, chicken and homemade meatballs, the chef shared how we takes care in selecting just the right ingredients--knowing where to find the perfect chicken raised and fed with care and the most flavorful and fresh shrimp and vegetables. Our host also explained that for many men, making the paella is a macho activity and they are very serious about it--do not talk to them or bother them while cooking. Juan, on the other hand, has a more relaxed attitude and can socialize, as he did with us, while cooking. Somehow he has the right balance of taking his paella just seriously enough--with great results--delicioso! In addition to the paella (of which I had two giant servings), we had a plate of shrimp, homemade Tzizki sauce, cheese and refreshing melon to complete the meal.

I cannot imagine a more perfect meal complimented by good company and an ideal setting.

Spanish Hospitality

We arrived in Spain to a warm welcome. Our host was kind enough to pick us up at the airport, show us around and orient us to our temporary home. Our home was stocked with groceries, fresh fruits and vegetables, and some nice welcome gifts including delicious Rioja wine and Cava to toast our arrival. It was such a hospitable start that we have felt instantly at home.

After some rest from our long journey, our host showed us some of the area and particularly, sights that are not within walking distance since we do not have a car for our stay. We toured the local mountain, Montgo and went to the San Antonio lighthouse, a beacon over the Mediterranean. Words cannot adequately describe the beauty of the area, so I will let the pictures demonstrate instead.

We also drove through the town and got some hints on local restaurants. Some local specialties include varieties of fresh seafood, especially shrimp, and paella. Being in the Valencia vicinity, fresh citrus and fruit trees are abundant and we were treated to a big bag of tangerines from our neighbor. Other Spanish delicacies are olives and an abundance of olive oil (Spain is the #1 producer, Italy just does a better job promoting), jamon (ham/pork--several different varieties in degrees of taste and price), gazpacho (which we thought was Mexican in origin, but obviously started here first), many local cheeses including fresh goat cheese, Manchego and Cabrales blue cheese...and wine, this being one of the top producing wine countries in the world.

I love visiting grocery stores and markets in other countries as the different foods fascinate me. There is a daily market in town and on Lunes y Viernes (Monday and Friday) they add a special fruit and vegetable market in the streets. I am sure I will become a regular there, though we did not visit this week as we were so well-stocked with goodies from our host.

We are in the Alicante area of Spain--known as the Costa Blanca (the various coastal areas have been divided up and named as such, mostly a marketing term versus a cultural region). Denia is between Valencia and Alicante and directly across the sea from Ibiza. The location creates a perfect microclimate of sunshine and sea breezes--you notice immediately how green the town is compared with neighboring areas.

Our condo sits just outside the historic urban center, a short walk from the port with equally stunning views of the Montgo and the Mediterranean. The port is a working port, with much fishing and ferries to Ibiza and Palma. I am looking forward to visiting the fish auction/market that occurs each evening at 5:00. The marina has numerous restaurants and houses many yachts. The locals note that our building has contrasting views--ugly from outside (it sticks out somewhat as a high rise in an area with low architecture--you can find it from almost any point in town) but the most beautiful from inside looking out. Being on the fifth floor with a wrap around balcony, views abound.

Click here to see the photos of the views and the area.