Things to Do in Shanghai: Shopping (or Browsing)

Some lament Shanghai as not being a very cultural city.  While I hope to refute that with future posts about some of the great cultural activities to do here, I'm possibly going to reinforce it by focusing first on shopping.  The reality is, shopping is a big part of both life and tourism here and more abundant than art museums, opera or major historical attractions.  And, even if you aren't a big shopper (my souvenirs tend to be photos), you'd be missing out if you did not at least indulge in some browsing in Shanghai.

So, where to go for the Shanghai shopping experience?

There are many international stores, high end merchandisers, and fancy shops dotted throughout the city.  You can find many on Huahai Lu and can also browse tiny shops and cafes throughout the Former French Concession.  There are malls everywhere, including many metro stations (during winter, especially, I like hopping off the metro at People's Square and getting lost amongst the two malls that run underground there, where you can get your nails done, get a haircut and buy just about anything).  In many of the high end malls, you'll find some of the most peaceful spots in all of Shanghai as bargain hunters know better than to be lured by luxe.  The real bargains and fun browsing can be found at:

The fake markets
I personally love the shops at the Science and Technology metro stop (ahhh...the convenience of shopping without ever leaving the metro).  I'm not really caught up in brand names...and you have to decide what your ethics are on that whole thing.  However, this little den of tiny shops does have a lot of treasures for bargain hunters...and when you need gifts or practical items, you can spend an afternoon here and walk away with a lot for a little.  I also like that there are some different areas here, such as several rows of tailors/fabric shops and a pearl/jewelry area.  I got a beautiful coat made for a very reasonable price (after bargaining) and was extremely pleased with the quality.  This is a great place for windbreakers, winter coats, clothing and various small items...from belts to iphone cases to gifts.  We purchased four winter coats (including two hefty down coats), each priced between 300-400 RMB ($45-65).  Depending on your negotiation skills and how set you are on a particular item or brand, prices will run the gamut.

Great for: jackets, coats, belts and bags.  Also, try the tailor section for handmade items--from shirts and suits to coats and Chinese dresses.

Han City is the large fake market area on the Puxi side of town, conveniently located on Nanjing Rd.  Though I have not been to this one, it should be similarly jam-packed with fakes of all types.

Word of warning/bargaining tips: This is not shopping for the faint of heart--and browsing requires caution.  If you don't seriously want to consider buying something, don't get caught looking too closely.  Show any interest and you will be hounded.  You have to have a strong will (and sometimes actual strength, as vendors will literally chase you down, grab your arms, etc.).  I have occasionally looked at something and decided it was not the type I wanted, but the vendors think that is all part of the bargaining experience so they are determined that if they negotiate you will eventually buy it anyway.

On the other hand, keep this in mind when bargaining.  The opening price will be significantly more than you should pay.  I find it best to know how much I really want something and have a price in my mind (a bargain price--remember, these are fake goods and it's all cash, no returns or help if a zipper breaks or something--the whole point here is to get something for a very good price).  From the original price offered, you may want to counter with as low as 10% of that, maybe with a willingness to go up to 30%.  But, I find it all depends on what it is and my feelings toward wanting the item (and the ridiculousness of the vendor's starting point).  For example, we bought some funny souvenirs at the holidays--things that we did not need to get and were more novelty than anything else--for those we wouldn't go much above the 10% of what they asked (and got it--in all but one case, in which we went to the neighboring vendor and got it for the price we wanted).

A sampling of the wares: handmade coat from a local tailor

The fabric markets
The South Bund fabric market is the most well known, housing hundreds of tailors who can make you anything from a custom suit to shirts, dresses, coats and household items.  Quality varies widely, so if you know someone who can give you a recommendation, that is most helpful.  We got a recommendation from a friend who had business shirts made in the South Bund market and was very pleased--and the price is great!  I also had good luck with the coat I had made, which was simply luck of the draw, though I did look at what she had on display (and bargained hard enough that I would not have been devastated by a bad outcome).  Now, I have seen her quality and will be returning.  (P.S.  You'll make lots of "special friends", getting "special prices" with reminders to come back and get more items soon--the only reason you're getting such a deal is because "now we're friends" and you'll return or "not many customers now, so best price".)

There is also a smaller fabric market called the Shi Liu Pu Cloth Market and as mentioned, many tailors also in the Science and Technology "mall".  The tailors are especially good at copying an item you have or even modifying something (making a dress shorter, taking an item in, etc.).  You can also see what their specialty item is--best to stick with what they know.  Tailors may need a couple days to a week to complete an item, so if your time is short and you want custom items, make the fabric market a first stop.  There really are treasures to be had for great prices--if you shop wisely, bargain well and ask for corrections if something is not right.  Generally, you agree to a price and put down a deposit (such as half) and pay the remainder upon pickup/approval.  Many tailors have some basic English and you can generally manage to communicate through a purchase even if your Chinese is non-existent.

Great for: men's shirts, suits, copies of favorite items, coats.  Also, if you sew or do projects, you can find some great buttons, trims and fabrics.  Interestingly, in the South Bund area, there are also numerous fabrics and tailors on back streets.  My guess is this is where you'd get the real bargains, but I'm not sure about the logistics of the dealings.  I just like walking down the streets looking at large piles of bunting, all types of fabrics in tiny storefronts and tables, alongside live chickens running around, people having their lunches, neighborhood markets, etc.

Dong Tai Lu Antiques Market

This is a Shanghai must-do browsing experience--and one of my favorites as it is right around the corner from home and fun to wander through any time.  If you're a true antique aficionado, the items may or may not be legit.  You'll find everything from large Buddha statues, art deco items, old phones and leather suitcases to jewelry, t-shirts and trinkets.

Small booths line the streets and there are additional shops and warehouse areas behind the booths (I don't know about the use of the word "market" here...it's more "antique streets").  This is a fun place to add some quirky decoration to your home, such as old rotary dial telephones, propaganda items and assorted "tchotkes".  But, as mentioned, beware when it comes to looking at/for high end legit antiques.  There probably are some real treasures, but I'd be leery about shelling out big bucks.

Here is the listing on Smart Shanghai for how to get to Dong Tai Lu.

Across the street, you can find the Flower and Bird Market.  I don't know if this one has a name, but it is on the east side of Xizang Nan Lu (the main street from which you enter the antiques area above).  Many days, you'll see big crowds out buying things from vendors on the streets in front of it.

Browsing the streets outside the flower and bird market.  Vendors and storefronts sell every type of accessory for your bird you could imagine, along with other little treasures (many of which I have still not figured out).

You enter in to the little lanes of the market to find all sorts of living creatures.  Birds, of course, and flowers/plants--but also a lot of insects, frogs, and every type of pet accessory as well.  It's another must-do browsing experience (unless birds and insect noises will give you nightmares).  There is apparently also a Hongqiao Bird and Flower Market which also contains various housewares.

Peeking in to the lanes of the bird and flower market on Xizang Nan Lu

As with anywhere I go, I also enjoy checking out supermarkets and food markets (including little fruit stands and local shops).  In China, check out the wet markets, which sell all manner of foods.  They will typically have fish, poultry, meat, fruits and veggies.

It is a world apart from your sanitized western grocery store experience and well worth a look, even if you aren't up to buying.  Wet markets can be found in most neighborhoods throughout Shanghai and as far as browsing goes, hitting the streets here for a good, long walk is the best way to browse, shop and "absorb".

One of my favorite "browsing" experiences is just hitting the streets of my neighborhood to watch the commerce and daily activity, duck in a few little shops and check out the street vendors.  On different days, we have vendors selling gloves, hats, apples, kiwis, hot foods (my favorite are the roasting sweet potatoes!)--and even a seamstress with her sewing machine set up on the sidewalk.

Oh--and one final note--Ikea.  Yes, the ubiquitous furniture and housewares spot, and a handy resource for expats as an easy way to stock up your apartment--but with a Chinese twist.  The twist being the people, who love hanging out there.  On a Saturday or holiday (we arrived during National Holiday week), the store will be jam-packed with families enjoying a lounge on the couches, children playing and lying in the beds and general wall-to-wall people.  Ikea is exactly as you know it (with the usual restaurant, which is also packed), but it has now become an extended living room for thousands of locals.  If you're in a hurry to get some practical shopping done, pick a weekday.  If you want to get the true local experience, go on a Saturday or holiday and hang with the masses.

2012: What a year!

If you would have told me on December 31st 2011, that we would be living and working in China a year later...  I would have told you that you were crazy!  Nonetheless, we rang in 2013 in Shanghai after moving here in October.

After spending a few months in Spain in 2011, we were determined to get back and for a longer period.  We worked hard to make all the necessary arrangements and our 2012 adventures started somewhere over the Atlantic.  We landed in London on New Year's Day 2012 and enjoyed a long layover at the Yo-tel Gatwick before heading to our final destination - Valencia, Spain.

Ah Valencia, she welcomed us with her warm sunshine and charming culture.  Christmas is traditionally celebrated through January 6th in Spain, so we were in time to witness the decorations, last-minute shopping and celebrations leading up to 3 Kings Day.

Christmas tree in Plaza Ayuntamiento - Valencia

We settled into our new apartment in the Barrio del Carmen and quickly got back into the swing of Spain... remembering almost instantaneously why we fell in love with this country, people and culture.   We had been to Valencia several times in 2011, but always short trips.  This time we had 6 months (minus some travel) to explore all Valencia has to offer.  See the numerous past Spain posts for more.

We were both going to be working this time - US hours - so this immediately felt like a move and not a vacation... although we did have round-trip tickets.  It was a slight adjustment getting used to working different hours and a different routine, not to mention finding reliable internet in the old city.  But we got adjusted fairly quickly and this was home.

In February, we took a short trip... back to Italy again, Rome this time and met our good friends Curtis and Teresa from Florida there.  It was a fantastic trip full of food, drink and history.  If you missed the blog post on Rome, you can find it here.  As well, see our many pictures from Rome here.

Official town Falla of Dénia

We returned to Valencia to find the city getting ready for the annual Fallas festival.  We had planned from the outset to spend the month around Fallas in Dénia.  Fallas in Valencia is a little too wild and crazy, especially trying to work, so it was planned for us head south for a month.  We enjoyed Fallas in Dénia last year, and were extremely excited to be returning again.  We stayed at our same apartment as we did in 2011 and were very happy to reconnect with all the Dénia locals at our favorite places in town.

As much you can plan travel down to the smallest detail, there are always unexpected snags.  Some small, others not so much.  Upon returning to Valencia from Rome and preparing to make the trip to Dénia, I learned that I would be losing my job.  This was most unexpected and unfortunate.  Adding to it that we are away from the US, made it more so.  However, if there is one thing traveling has taught me, its "go with the flow".  No problem is too great and there is always a solution - most often, with a silver lining - awaiting you at the other end.

One of the best things about traveling and being away from "home" is that everything is fresh and new.  Possibilities seem endless and things that you would never usually consider doing, somehow seem perfect and necessary.  With the right attitude, anything can be a good thing.

Although offered a couple, I decided to not try to find another job with my company and go ahead and leave.  I enrolled in a TEFLA  (Teaching English as a Foreign Language to Adults) class in Valencia.  I interviewed and was accepted into the May class.  I took the time in Dénia to enjoy my surroundings, Fallas and brush-up on my English...  its been a long time since I studied English.  Moreover, the learning I was doing was Spanish...  not English.
 

San Sebastián, Spain

We returned to Valencia in mid-April, but had planned a road trip of Rioja and the Basque country of Spain earlier in the year.  Job or no job...  we were not cancelling the trip.  Plus, I love driving aroud Spain.  We spent a week touring the north of Spain, enjoying scenery very different than other areas of the country, and some of the best food and drink we´ve ever had.  Highlights of our journey can be found here, but by far the most memorable part of this trip was the day at Basque Gastronomic Society, eating, cooking and learning the real secret behind making Spanish rice.

May was now upon us and it was time to hit the books.  I was prepared as I was going to be for my TEFLA class.  Having no idea what to expect, no idea how I´d do... only that I was sure I wouldn't like it, I jumped in with both feet.  My only 2 expectations were that 1) I'd be the oldest person in the class and 2) that I'd be the only American.  Both were wrong.  In fact everything I expected was wrong.  I didn't like the class, I loved it.  It was incredibly rewarding and enlightening, also very intensive and required some very long hours.  You see, the job I was doing benefited no one...  our stockholders, maybe.  Sure, I was helping the advancement of technology, but is that always a good thing?  Here I was truly enriching someone's life by helping them gain a skill that they could use to get a (better) job, travel or just become a more well-rounded person.  I was making an ever so small difference in the world...  it felt good.  Every day I walked from our apartment in the Carmen, across the bridge over the Turia to the metro.  I enjoyed the short train ride with the other commuters and got to class.  Class taught me less about English as a language and more about how to teach it... which I truly enjoy.  It's certainly not curing cancer or solving world hunger, but rewarding all the same.  I finally figured out what I want to be when I grow up...  funny that it only took 40 years.

Also in May we had a nice visit from Shannon's parents.  I missed out on a lot of the visit due to my class, but we did go down to Dénia for a day and enjoyed a fantastic paella lunch at Agua del Mar...  one of our favorites.  It was nice to be able show them Valencia and Dénia and have them understand what we enjoy so much about this part of the world and travel in general.  It was around this time that my company (the one that let me go just a month prior) reached out to see my interest in a job in China.  I entertained the idea, but teaching English in Spain was now the goal...

June was spent in Valencia and Dénia, watching Spain dominate Euro2012 and looking for some jobs teaching English.  Although I had lots of offers, it was a lack of a Spanish work permit that prevented my getting a job.  It is truly a catch-22 in Spain.  You need a contract to get a work permit, but you need a work permit to get contract.  Frustrated but determined to get back, we left Spain in early July after receiving some bad family health news and rushed home to be there.  Luckily everything turned out to be just fine in the end and all are happy and healthy.

Realizing I couldn't legally teach English in Spain as I wanted, and also not wanting to be in US (where I had a couple offers), I accepted the job to go work in Shanghai.  The job is good for travel as I literally cover the entire world and so far, it has been a good decision. 

We returned to Florida in late July and I boarded the plane to China on August 1st.  It takes a full month to get all of your visas and permits in China.  So, I was in Shanghai for August.  I found an apartment, got acclimated, etc.  Shannon was back home (except for a short visit) making preparations to sell our house and all of our stuff.  We had the house rented while we were gone in Spain and came home to realize none of our "things" really mattered any more.  Sure there are sentimental items that we keep and treasure, but our TV, sofa, pots/pans...  all replaceable and not needed.  It is true what they say about the stuff you own, eventually owning you.

I returned to Florida in September and we spent the month getting ready for the move to Shanghai.  We "moved" to Valencia in 2012, but when you start your journey with a return ticket in your hand...  its not really a move.  When you sell your house, your car, everything you own and buy a one-way ticket...  that is a move.  We timed everything as well as we could.  We had an offer on the house after 3 days on the market.  Wow!  We had an estate sale...  full liquidation, everything must go!  And it did.  It is quite liberating to let go of everything, nothing holding you back and free to roam. 

We've been in Shanghai now for 3 full months now and I must say I love it.  We don't speak Chinese, we don't need to - but it sure would help sometimes.  We have a nice place in the center of town, close to the metro and places we like to go.  I'm traveling for my job, not too much so far...  and we are learning how to live amongst the Chinese, in their culture.  You can read recent posts for more there.    

The goal of teaching English in Spain is not abandoned, just delayed.  The Spanish economy isn't looking any better than it did 6 months ago and realistically, this probably isn't the time to be there.  There are tons of English jobs in Asia and my eyes are always open for the right opportunity...  and it would be a great experience to teach here. 

So goodbye to 2012, what a year...  it's 2013 and for now, we are content and happy to be here.  Every day is a new adventure and that is refreshing.  It's not without the occasional snag, but travel never is and the snags are what it is all about...  really. 

Our Chinese Christmas

We spent our first Christmas away from the U.S. this year.  Even with all our past travels, we have always been somewhere in the states in all the years past.  We certainly wondered with Christmas as expats in China would be like...

After returning to Shanghai in early December, the Christmas decorations began to appear.  We really didn't know what to expect, and perhaps we should not have been so surprised by the level of "festiveness".  While Christmas is not traditionally celebrated by most people here from a religious point-of-view (Wikipedia says about 4-5% of the population is Christian), the commercial side of things has certainly been embraced.

Everywhere we went, the store employees donned Santa hats atop their usual uniforms.  Christmas decorations filled the aisles of stores, trees popped up throughout town and a lot of businesses sported decorated windows.

Our apartment building had not one, but two, Christmas trees in the lobby--including this one which we were invited to "make up".

When I returned from my trip home, my unexpected Christmas gift was a festively decorated apartment.  After an attempt at "Holiday House" which turned out to be more "Christmas junk store", Ikea saved the day with some classy decorations to make our apartment sparkle.

The Shanghainese people seemed to get in to the spirit in their own ways.  Our friendly apartment doorman (who mainly sits in the lobby smoking, but is also responsible for fetching the water jugs for residents' water machines--and he does keep a "discard battery" box at his desk, so I guess the duties are really quite diverse), flashed a big smile and wished us a "Merry Christmas!" (I'm being generous with the pronunciation, but let's be truthful it far exceeded my Chinese pronunciation) when he came to bring our new water on Christmas eve.  It was a nice change of pace from our usual exchange of "Ni hao" and gesturing.  We got greeted quite frequently with "Merry Christmas" all over town.  At the office, apparently there was a day of giving small gifts amongst all the Chinese colleagues and we saw several company parties out celebrating throughout the season.

I also got a lot of smiles when I wore my Santa hat out and about and we got in to a nice chat with a newly transplanted expat from Australia who was heading to meet friends for a holiday lunch.  Of course, I get an even better reaction when I wear my panda hat.  I never saw so much enthusiasm as the spa receptionist's welcome when I was wearing my panda hat and gloves on our trip to get massages.  No one thinks it is unusual since cutsie animal wear is all the rage, but they do seem to puzzle over a foreigner in it.  I think it also made quite an impression at home in the states, but people had to struggle between curiosity and those pesky western mores telling them not to stare.  (By the way, even though we spent Christmas in China--as you can see, we got in to the holiday spirit back home first and celebrated early with the family.  Now you see where I get it from!  They encouraged me to buy the matching Panda gloves at Claire's.  Here we are in all our finery at the Williamsburg Grand Illumination.)

Back to Christmas in China...we began scoping out all the holiday options.  Our choices seemed endless, especially if we wanted to eat and drink until we popped.  Every restaurant seemed to be offering holiday dinners and festivities.  The major hotels all have large pre-set dinners and drinks, often including entertainment and the ubiquitous "lucky draw" and prizes.

Side bar:  To give you an idea about the cross-cultural popularity of chances to win (and I won't say the cultural phenomena because it seems to be pretty universal if Powerball, El Gordo, etc. are any indication that people universally love a random game of chance) the official receipts/invoices here contain a scratch off chance to win.  Why?  Apparently, it was an effort to encourage people to actually report income and sales, instead of the more common practice a number of years ago of skirting taxes at all times--what better way to encourage people to demand official receipts?  Give them a chance to win something!  P.S., you ask for the "fapaio" to get this official receipt (with the ever-present red stamp).

We started off the holiday season by joining in Santa Con 2012.  What a great way to get in the spirit!

For holiday eating, we scoured the magazines and online postings and finally decided to try El Willy, one of Shanghai's most well-known Spanish restaurants, for Christmas eve dinner.  We love El Willy's "younger brother", Elefante, and have enjoyed many good meals there.  Our six-course Spanish meal with to-die-for views of the Bund made for a great Christmas eve.  We had also discovered one of the best holiday deals in town--a 98 RMB (about $13) all-you-can-drink "happy hour" running throughout the holidays at The House of Roosevelt's rooftop deck.  The setting cannot be beat and they have glassed in the deck to make it nice and toasty for winter.  With the price, you can enjoy a cocktail or two with a view that is worth the price of admission.  On Christmas eve, they had a supposed "Christmas film" night, which consisted of a screen in the corner showing some random cop flick.  Not exactly the Christmas movie we expected, but it was more fun to watch the neon lights of Pudong and the varied crowd celebrating.

We started out Christmas Day Skyping with family back home--Christmas eve their time.  Unfortunately, bad weather changed their plans so we only got to Skype with half of one group and caught the other group rushing off to beat the icy road conditions.  When our ayi arrived to clean (the benefits of this not being a holiday here--cleaning on Christmas day!), we went out to enjoy some (cold) sunshine and visited the European Christmas market at Xintiandi.  It was enjoyable to walk around the park and check out some of the items for sale, but I don't know that this market really lives up to the standard.  There was plenty of random stuff to buy, but the Merry-go-Round was only for show and the entertainment consisted of taking your picture with a Garfield or Gangnam Style cut-out (which I had to do, of course, because nothing says Christmas like Gangnam Style).

For Christmas dinner, we had decided to order from our favorite online organic grocery store, Fields.  They were offering various holiday meals and we got a dinner suitable for 4-6 and invited our new neighbors to spend the evening together.  Fields usually delivers within about a 4 hour time block, but were nice enough to get more specific for us so we could have the meal warm and not have to deal with reheating in our limited kitchen.  As we sat chatting with our neighbors, the doorbell rang and our feast arrived.  We had a whole chicken, stuffing, mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts, purple cabbage, squash and pumpkin pie.  Every bit of it was delicious, and we ate heartily with plenty left over.  We enjoyed the company of our new neighbors and getting to know each other better, as we all adjust to living in our "home away from home" adopted Shanghai.

We received a nice Christmas bonus when our realtor came over Christmas morning to help us figure out the TV that we have never been able to work.  We can now watch our movies on the big screen, instead of the tiny little laptop!  And, with newly purchased speakers, we can hear the movies better and could play our thousands of Christmas carols while we enjoyed dinner.  We finished off our Christmas with a favorite holiday movie, Love Actually.  Don't worry--we also watched that great American classic, Christmas Vacation, the next day.

Now...on to the bigger holidays here!  Chinese New Year will be something to behold, and from what we hear 12/31 is not too shabby either.  We have a "front row" view from Hyatt on the Bund to watch the fireworks and stay out of the cold.

Wishing everyone everywhere a peaceful and joyful 2013!

Shanghai Santa Con 2012

What could be more fun than making merry with a bunch of makeshift "Santas" throughout the city--spreading wonder, joy and amazement while having a general great time?  We thought it sounded like a pretty good time when we heard about it online and decided it was a fun way to spend a Saturday afternoon.  After spending a heavy morning reading the tragic news of the Newtown school shootings, Santa Con delivered some much needed joy and reinforcement of the good in the world.

Santa Con is a gathering of people dressed as Santa Claus, which apparently began in Copenhagen in 1974 and has spread throughout the world.  It is essentially a "Santa convention" that moves throughout the city, having a good time and spreading goodwill.  It is kind of a mix between a pub crawl, a parade and a city tour.  SantaCon now takes place in 275 locations in 37 countries.  We were surprised to learn this was Shanghai's first SantaCon.  SantaCon Shanghai was put together with help from Shanghai Pub Crawl, BEAN (a volunteer organization) and sponsors like Daily Secret Shanghai.  BEAN, which does great volunteer and charity works in Shanghai and brings together young professionals for events and networking as well, benefited from donations collected along the route.  Donations went to pay for diapers and supplies for orphans, and they also sold flasks to help fund operating costs.  Check out BEAN online for ways to contribute (there are BEAN organizations in many cities throughout the world too).

After receiving the loose schedule online (the location and route is kept somewhat secret up until the day or so before the event), we arrived in the Former French Concession to find a group of Santas loitering on the corner near a Lawson's, fueling up on Santa Con juice (beer and wine coolers for some, water for others).

Commemorative spandex Santa suits were for sale, complete with full face cover.  Not so great for drinking beer, but no one let that stop them!

Other Santas gathered at a nearby bar, The Camel, playing pool and enjoying some Santa juice and food for the long journey ahead.

The group quickly became the curiosity of the neighborhood, and the first of many photos were taken.  After experiencing the curious onlookers (and resulting traffic jam) at the Halloween party we attended in Shanghai, we had anticipated and looked forward to being a source of wonder to the locals.  I'm sure SantaCon attracts attention anywhere, but the pure curiosity and joy of the people in China at such sights makes it especially fun.

Eventually, the group gathered and got a little introduction about the festivities, took a few photos and began our march.

Our group made its way over to Yongkang Lu, a great little street of cafes and bars.  It was a drizzly, cold day but overall not a bad one for a SantaCon--no downpours or extreme cold, and we had Santa hats and beards (and spandex suits or hot pink tuxes, depending on your interpretation of Santa style) to keep us warm.

The Santa march begins

Gathering on the street and bars at Yongkang Lu

The locals' curiosity built and we began attracting onlookers.  Bryan and I delighted a little boy with a camera by posing for his first photo and then giving him one of the lollipops we brought along to give out on the route.  I especially enjoyed watching the little old ladies grasping arms and giggling walking down the street.  I imagined the phone calls going out from the apartments over the street, "You have to come see these goofy Laowais (foreigners) dressed up as Santa.  Crazy!  Come take pictures!". 

A little boy, who I nicknamed Waldo, became the local star as he came along in his Santa hat, Christmas sweater and eyeball glasses and joined in the crowd.  His family enjoyed watching him have fun and take part in many photo opps.

We had mostly traditional renditions of Santa, along with a few "girl" Santas in dresses, an elf, and one guy in a skimpy cheerleader-like belly baring outfit (brr!).  While hanging out on Yongkang Lu, a biker covered in stickers joined us.  I don't really know what it was all about, but he was big on giving hugs (maybe to keep warm) and seemed to be in the spirit, if not in the proper costume.

We enjoyed a spot at the Handle Bar watching the action in the streets, and then grabbed a couple of slider sandwiches at Sliders to fuel up for the rest of the journey.  Of course we had to snap the obligatory "wherever you go" shot of the ubiquitous Yankees hat (may be a little hard to see in this photo)...

Next, the group walked to the Metro and gathered on the platform to catch the train together because of course Santas must stick together on the same sleigh.  We sung various carols as we rode to our next destination.

Santas on the train

We arrived at People's Square metro and had some politically incorrect photo opps with the statues.

We proceeded to East Nanjing pedestrian road--one of my least favorite (touristy, crowded, constant hawkers) places in Shanghai, but which is a lot more fun at night with a large group of Santas! We stopped for a great photo opp by the tree (sponsored, of course, by the Galaxy Note II).

We even had our minute of fame, gathering on a small stage and dancing and singing along to some tunes.

Our adoring fans (and a few of the Santas--and cows, from the group, documenting the moment)

There were various photo opp stops along the way, as we continued to be the objects of fascination and we delighted in spreading joy by posing with many, many people who were thrilled to have their photo taken with one or more of us.  We gave joy through photos, candy handouts and simply by existing.  It really was a refreshing way to spend the evening after such a sad start to the day.  As a few beggars approached, we had no change to give but handed them each one of our lollipops.  The reaction was amusing, as of course it was not what they were hoping for, but yet they smiled and were thankful.  Bryan gave a lollipop to a little grandmother who was walking with her family and you would have thought he handed her a winning lottery ticket.  She smiled widely and thanked him and all of the family joined in the thanks and joy.  This occurred over and over with children as well, though a couple children and parents were a bit shy/unsure about the whole thing.

We made our way up to The Bund.  Normally, this would have been the best photo opp, but the Shanghai smog was at its finest.  However, we took some group photos and then spent a lot of time giving out joy by posing with many Chinese people for them to snap pictures with us.  I wonder how many of these photos are traveling around the internet on Weibo or being messaged to friends ("Look at me with these goofy Laowais who were parading around as Santas.  I don't know if this is some kind of Laowai traditon?").  Bryan was asked by one group who spoke a bit of English if we were all friends.  "No, just strangers who got together and dressed as Santa for the night." and in reply, "Oh, so this was on the internet?"  They got it!

Our group rounded out the night at the South Bund/Cool Docks area, at Bubba's Texas BBQ (nothing says Christmas like BBQ and beer).  We jumped in taxis and cozied up inside with some food and drinks.  Many of the SantaCon participants continued the party with a Christmas Pub Crawl and loaded into a bus from Rico Rico.  We said goodbye at this point as we're not quite as young as the rest of the group (not that we couldn't have done it, we just have enough life experience to know Santas need rest!).

There may still be the opportunity to participate in a SantaCon this year in your area and I'd highly recommend it, especially if your Christmas spirit is lagging and your faith in humanity has been shaken.  If not, dress in something cheery and go spread some joy anyway! 

Happy Holidays to everyone and let's all wish (and work towards) for peace and kindness in 2013!

The Ever Present ______ of China

1.  Little Red Stamp (or official "chop")

The little red stamp marks all papers as legitimate and is highly prized.  Show someone your official paperwork with the chop and you get happy, admiring responses.  Paperwork and bureaucracy reigns supreme and there are many careers built on protecting and managing the official company, agency, etc. stamp.  The significance is such that the stamp forger was a lifesaver in one story I read from the Cultural Revolution (it's one thing to forge papers to save a loved one, but without that "chop" skillfully crafted, it would be a failure).  I most enjoy listening to the loud echo of the "chop" reverberating through the speaker from behind the glass as it is proudly slammed down on every paper at the bank.

2.  Bikes

Bikes-good for a nap too!

Most vehicular traffic is of the two-wheeled variety.  While cars have increased exponentially in the last several years in China, bikes and scooters still rule.  Cities like Shanghai limit car traffic (I cannot begin to imagine the noise, congestion and air quality if they didn't.) so you mainly see taxis, buses and every form of two-wheeled (or sometimes three-wheeled carts, etc.) transport.  Electric bikes are quite popular, whizzing by you without lights at night--beware!  Bicycles, motorcycles and scooters whiz by with babies in seats on the back, or more often simply "sitting"/hugging the lap of the parent.  A bike cart can carry furniture, an entire city block's laundry or 100 coolers.  Bikes, and even the scooters, are very reasonably priced and I have thought about getting one but I think I'm daring enough sticking to walking amongst them for now (sometimes I even put headphones on--and have yet to get hit!).

Bicycle carrying a load of about 100 Styrofoam coolers

3.  Commerce

The economic reform of the last many years here has taken hold with a pent-up vengeance.  Ads blanket the city, from subway stops and constantly revolving elevator ads to actual LED built in to the sides of skyscrapers and a trip to our local EMart is an assault on the senses, with products everywhere and numerous employees pitching the latest special from a headset/mic.  A trip to the "fake market" or any area with street stalls is an exercise in resistance--don't look too closely or point at anything unless you really want to start the bargaining process.  Just about everything that exists is for sale here, depending on what you want to pay.  I have read some articles recently commenting on the "Chinese thriftiness" that remains, but retailers are pinning hopes on the younger generation taking on more Western spending habits and being drawn in to high prestige items.  I find that a shame, but I guess it is good for all the high end stores around here, which are most often completely empty.  I prefer the thriftiness and the addictive thrill of bargaining (I thought I would hate it, but must admit there is a certain feeling of "winning" that makes shopping much more exciting--of course, I'm probably not the one who is winning.).

There is just a constant "industriousness" (busy-ness?) here, the pulse of so many people in commerce.  There are an overwhelming number of people working everywhere (thus the resistance needed--don't imagine you are going to look at something in a store for long without someone at your side to "help" you, a funny exercise when you don't speak the same language and yet, they've often managed to sell me something!).  On a trip to a local Watson's (like a CVS or Walgreens but without the pharmacy), there were at least 7 sales women working in a tiny store, stationed at their particular areas.  Uh oh, lingered a little too long at the lotion display--time for a sales pitch and demo...

4.  Noise

Ok--this is one of those instances where my post should perhaps substitute Shanghai for China.  I am sure there are peaceful rural villages with little noise, but that seems as foreign to me as China might to you if you're sitting on the other side of the world.  There are brief moments of quiet.  Generally this is a pretty "early" city, by which I mean that at night things shut down fairly early, dinner is eaten by 8 etc.  Of course, there are nightclubs and people out late, but the most peaceful times are at night.  There is even a brief period, from about 12-4 where there are only intermittent horns blowing (I still hear one or two if I don't have ear plugs firmly embedded).

I read an article with mouth hanging open that said the police were cracking down on noise, by doing things like fining the elderly people who dance and sing at the subway stops and parks.  WHAAAT???  There's a good idea--stop the healthy behavior (and something that always makes me smile) and let the horns keep blaring.  But, good luck doing anything about those horns--that would cause a revolution for sure.

I have found a couple really odd quiet spots--one Metro stop which for some reason is often empty and the high end malls/stores.  This is not a good thing, in Chinese thinking, where renao (essentially translating to "hot and noisy") is sought out.  The concept does not exactly translate literally, but the idea of something being bustling (and thus often hot and noisy--and chaotic to the Western view) equates to exciting and desired.  (See above re: commerce, where this concept definitely applies as well.  Do not go to your local Ikea or EMart on a Saturday or holiday if you have a headache.  Learn to enjoy the renao or figure out ways to avoid it, but you'll be missing out on the quintessential Chinese experiences.  Just think Black Friday all the time and you get the idea.)

5. Laundry

These pictures only begin to show the constant presence of laundry in our daily lives:

 

6.  Cute

This is a dangerous one for me, as every day is an act of willpower not to buy the next adorable tchotke.  Everywhere you look you'll find some adorable panda, pig, bunny, Hello Kitty... something (slippers, wallets, p.j.'s, hats)--see Exhibit1 of my lack of resistance (actually it was a gift!).

I also could not resist the cartoon pig coffee mug, which makes me smile every morning, and the bunny pajamas (which, in China, double as shopping wear).  Yes, adorable people of all ages (but mainly the older generation and young adult/teenage girls) wear their p.j.'s out and about for all sorts of activities, and these are no yoga pants or sweatsuits but full-on old school or fluffy pajamas.  So far my favorites have been the fully quilted versions and the man in plaid pink silk.  Even the dogs get in on the action, with their little outfits and shoes to match.